here is new map1, done after the newly drawn buslines the encircled 3-letter-points are changing points or maybe changing-points, f.e. CEN centralen. the simple 3-letters are destination-points/ turning-points f.e. HEB or SKE. the small coloured arrows show the numbers and direction-signs on the busses , so you catch them towards the right direction. we take a right-turn-circle from Fridhemsplan:
fridhemsplan- bus 54- Kungsträdgården, FHP-KTG: taking bus 54 you pass hantverkargatan, the street of the handymen.” kungsholm” means island of the king , which the king left over to handymen and small enterprises. (to get taxes of course ). one of the kings was karl-the-14th johann who`s name you see on the capitelle of landstingshuset. 200 years ago he was top- miltary marshall with napoleon but was begged by the swedisch gentry to be their king.
on scheelegatan you pass rådhuset, the house of jurisdiction, built in scandinavian nationell-romantic style. at bolinders plan you are reminded of the first mechanical factory here. another factory was planting blood-eating worms for medical reasons (igeldammsgatan). at klarabergsviadukten bus 54 pases then the stockholm-trauma of cutting down a whole quarter (klarakvartär) in the 7o-ies. skyscrapers at sergels torg are now desperately waiting for tennants. modernistic thinking destroyed a functioning quarter. kulturhuset is a kind of excuse for that, with its open architecture and many free activities. on top you can have a meal with fabulous views, on the bottom the so called plattan, there is unfortunately also drug-dealing and pocket-picking happening.
at “kungsträdgården” the garden of the king you change bus. the alm-trees there at thee Little garden-restaurant are still standing. they were occupied by demonstarndts in the 7o-ies marking protest against modernistic citybuilding. protests were successfull the planned metro-station got another location. Kungsträdgården- 55 / 2 -Stureplan, KTG-STU towards left (alternativ 1: Kungsträdgården 55 -Krukmakargatan, towards right, description down on this page ) (alternativ 2: Kungsträdgården tram7 – skansen , straight forward, see map) Birger-jarls-gatan and Stureplan is the playground for the young and old money-elites, you find best taylor-shops, jewellery, gucchi-bags, fiorucci shoes , home-decoration. fancy open-air restaurants for descretely showing-up. in between also coffee-bistroes were the more simple tourists can sit and enjoy a little voyeurism . see the banquers, the stock-brokers, the IT-geniousses with their sun-teints, fashionable haircuts and clothes along with tourists from all over the world and astonishingly many “normal” people . in the evening which does not start before 24h the fancy nightclubs open, doorwhatchers, queues, white powder on some toilets thus promoting another kind of business. Stureplan- bus 2- Roslagsgatan STU-ROS from a quite poor country under ww2 and after sweden became a well being wellfare state in the 60/70-ies thanks to growing industry supplying ww2`s damage-repairs in europe. in Stockholm houses became colourfull after having been grey before :from smoking chimneys, coal or wood-burning ovens in the apartments, when central heating , inside-apartment-bath was non-standard . now apartments and cars are the private symbols of well-to-do. working morals are high yet publicity, culture, consumption are strongly regulated by the socialdemocratic state. artists like Astrid lindren or Ingmar bergman slowly changed that picture, revolting young-ones turned away from the just-one-radio and tv-programm, listened to radio Luxemburg or radio North-sea or bought video-machines. in the 8oies liberal-conservatives changed the socialdemocrats monopoly on state , then governments of the 90ies had to tackle a harsh swedish economic crisis by rude budget-controll and cutdowns. middle of 90ies economy was on trck again when neoliberal market-politics took over. internet and media became propelling forces for many new companies, the banks developped finance-marketing including speculation. a growing `consumer elite` is now celebrating and showing up itself with top-branded clothes, chief cuisine restaurants, ferraris, juwell-pieces . students, low-wage-earners, micro-job-workers, newly-inmoved-from-other-country-people …..do the H&M wear and waste-style maybe?, second hand…. styling by just THE certain pair of shoes or scarfe ? or most probable dont show up at Stureplan. in many ways Stockholm now is over-eager to be `most exclusive`, most international, most open to new trends or creating them, yet there are still the shells of former puritanism, working-moral and a kind of ridigness. a constant being busy and occupied or on-the-way. a swedish european-song-contest-song was “I`m busy,busy,busy doing nothing at all…” . which makes the athmoshere in the capital of sweden a little less laid back and charming as it could be. r-oslagsgatan- bus 50 -centralen ROS-CEN our right-turn has turned into a left-turn for a while now and we ride on odengatan (oden was a nordic god ilke thor and the female freya..at the stop stadsbibliotek you could visit the town-library for free, the round building with many books especially on stockholm, even in english. in the sidestreet luntmakargatan you find cafe facille , a french restaurant with reasonable prices according to stockholm-standards.. around odenplan you have a wide choice of antique,and second-hand markets in the sidestreets worth to botanise in. at the stop vasaparken you could take off for the nice park, join the children on the top-playground , sit at a real traditonal swedish restaurant “tennstopet” or cafe “ritorno” with a lot of sunshine-chances.
at centralen you can take bus 53 to hendriksdalsberget (and back) a trip with views over the balticsee-bight or bus 65 to the island of skeppsholm (and back) with museum of modern art, asiatic museum and very worthwhile for a walkaround at the watersides and quaies.
centralen- bus 53 -henriksdalsberget and back CEN-HEK-CEN centralen-
centralen bus 65 -skeppsholmen and back CEN-SKE-CEN .
bus 53 -slussen CEN-SLU and then 55 slussen krukmakargatan SLU-KRU
bus 50 -fridhemsplan CEN – FHP if you continue with bus 50 you will pass big mr.walker running, the phantom-man in square-coat and felt-hat on the right.
after rounding him you see stockholm town-hall (stadshuset) built in the 30-ties in scandinavic national-romantic style combining traditionell handicraft-architecture and influences from other world nations arts as well. townhall can be visited on only guided tours. bus 5o goes up hantverkargatan passing landstingshuset like bus 54 we started with. landsting is the administrating-board for stockholm-areas public services like public transports or health-care. fridhemsplan is a quite noisy , square and trashy traffic-crossing, nevertheless it has been upgraded by a hostel around the corner st.eriksgatan , a greengrocery-stand, pub 08, and a very good sushi (goju?) at fridhemsgatan . 3 minutes away at hantverkargatan there is a secondhandshop from stadsmissionen. fridhemsplan- bus 54 -reimersholme , FHP-REI västerbron the western bridge with magnificent views, hornstull: a popular crossing and quarter and crosspoint, reimersholme: a small island with paths to the water reimersholme- bus 66 -krukmakargatan, REI – KRU bus 66 takes you again back to södermalm on the backstrees around högalids church . then it crosses hornsgatan and meets bus 55 at stop krukmakargatan. hornsgatan is: södermalms urbanity-street with hundreds of small shops for modern or old , marketlike places like bysis-torg, pubs with chairs on the footwalk , restaurants and bistros of all choices and prices. krukmakargatan- bus 55 -kungsträdgården, KRU – KTG bus 55 goes on hornsgatan to slussen. slussen now again is stockholms biggest construction area . in the 18th century it was a wooden ship-sluss in the 30-ties ship-traffic was led to a canal south of södermal and “slussen” became a spiral street-crossing for car-traffic its here the description ends .look at the map now or look at the text below where I describe how you would have come to slussen from the other side having chosen bus 55 from kungsträdgården to the right or bus 53 from centralen. the old sluss, constructed by christopher Polhem
if you continue this dubbel-8-turn now with 55 you will get back to KTG to which you cme with 54.
NOW if , having been coming with bus 54, you had chosen to take bus 55 to the right at kungsträdgården, signed “tanto” and towards krukmakargatan , KTT-KRU …. or bus 53 from centralen to slussen CEN-SLU and then bus 55 signed “tanto” from slussen to krukmakargatan….. the description is as follows :
bus 55 goes down to the eastside of the old town gamla stan.
at stop räntmästartrappan you could take a ferry-boat to skansen SKA . ( skansen is a very big and the first european open-air museum . opposite is gröna lund a tivoli with high-class attractions on quite narrow ground. abba-museum, wasa museum are close by and tram nr 7 takes you back to KTG kungsträdgården.
on your trip with 55 you you will see the parliament (riksdagen) and the royal castle, likewise with 65. with 53 you will see the house of the chivalry. (riddarhuset )
since we are passing much royalty and gentry, I will tell you a little bit about swedish kings and queens.
the chieftain birger jarl in the 13th century united the svea people und the folkungars and founded stockholm 1252 as barrier against intruders from the baltic sea. gustav ericsson vasa was in 1523, after the stockholm bloodbath was victorious over the danish in stockholm and became the first elected king of sweden with stockholm as its capital. he brought new ideas, skilled workers and craftsmen from the continent. the reformation came to sweden. also gustav adolph II. was a warriour king who laid the foundations for sweden being a great-power, together with chancellor axel oxenstierna. he fought in poland and in the 30years-war where he also died in battle. his daughter kristina was only 5 years old then, but was raised as a prince . she was trained in riding and weapons. but also in sciences and religion. one of her teachers was rene descartes ( poisoned in stockholm by a catholic monk). kristina began reigning at the age of 18, yet even 2 years ago she used her influence to end the 30years-war, on the protestant side led by the swedish troops . the peace of westphalia became an early milestone for european peace order . she held a rich court and invited artists and scientists . yet her quest for religion led her towards rome and she abdicated 4 years after having been crowned. she was welcomed by the pope just as if still being a queen and lived a long life in rome . but you won`t find a statue over her in stockholm …
year 1700 the big nordic war was breaking out . a just 18 year old man is swedens king carl XII. . under his regiment sweden is in war for 15 years and he himself is away from sweden nearly all this time. he is called ”soldier-king” . a third of swedens population dies of hunger. with a major battle being lost and him being murdered swedens time as great-power is over.
throughout the 18th century there was industrial awakening :destilleries, breweries, porcelaine works and glass factories ommenced operatons and the tiled stove revolutionised domestic heating. a new class of money-owning and -earnig undertakers arose and claimed citizens rights, and also another class of non-possesing-people grew in numbers, workers. when in 1789 revolution broke out in france, gustav III. had been swedish king for 17 years. he had curtailed the powers of the riksdag, gave more power to citizens and peasants. he centralised the power of the king and reigned as an absolute and illuminated king. the powers of the landowning and miliary nobilty were curbed and gustav III was assasined by a patriotic nobelman. it was gustav III who built the first opera and theatre in stockholm and was protagonist for poetry and music , most famous are the songs of carl michael bellmann.
gustav III. had planned to send troops to france to save king Louis XVI but was meeting too much complications. when after thefrench revolution napoleon bonaparte beecame french emperor and conquered nearly all of europé his general marshall in the field jean baptiste bernadotte was militarily and diplomacly operating in the north. his less occupational strategics were pleasing the swedish royalty which at the time was lacking an appropriate crown-prince or princess. so bernadotte was asked to be the new swedish king and he accepted and became carl johann XIV. up to now the bernanodotte-family is the royal family with crown-princess viktoria as latest to be successor on the throne. swedish queen or king is still formally head of state but the parliament (riksdagen) and government democratically elected. yet queen or king have symbolical and representative functions of importance depending on how – I should say- they personally use them.
bus 55 slussen -krukmakargan SLU-KRU
at changingpoint KRU where you could take 66 iinto opposite direction you could take a walk on Hornsgatan towards bysistorg. hornsgatan is one of the few well-kept functioning urban-street patterns with all kind of small-scale shop-variety, restaurants , meeting-places, backstreets , pubs, cultural spots, antique and fashion .
down below: pictures apart from sequentiell order :
”moderna museet” , sculptures of nikki de saint phalle SKE skeppsholmen, bus65s final destination, very fine view, you take a walk to castellholmen or have a coffee or beer on the terasse of skeppsholm hotel, in the old captain s buildings. even in those classy places it is ok just to have something to drink without having lunch or dinner. (maybe not if its crowd with people who come for eating. ) SKE skeppsholm – KTT karl den tolftes torg: change from 65 to 55 (towards hjorthagen) STU sturreplan: change from 55 to 2 bus 2 passing birger jarls gatan cruising