hamburg

aussenkajen, opposite speicherstadt (before that was built)

it was 1883 when the photographer set up his camera here. at that time a photographer still was a sensation to the people. from todays viewpoint it was just one of those little pleasures., of course.  the range of earthly delights for the population of Hamburg was not so bad – at that time too. by the way.  there were a large number of nightclubs as well as 8 theatres, a variety show and even a permanent circus.  the regular Joes of the time had some free time, but not a lot of it.  a mason worked 12 hours and only got 3,60 marks for it. stevedores had to work harder. they got 4,20 for their 12 hours. a lighterman (barge captain) was even worse off. he had to work a 13and half hour day for 3,60.   in contrast the living costs were nearly higher than today.  you were thought as well off if you had a relatively low-priced room at the ”gängeviertel” (behind the houses on the photo, taken down when modernising the harbour and building the speicherstadt at Bismarcks time ).   better off renters were willing to pay 60 marks per month for a floor in a residential house.  however, things like false theeth were cheaper than today.  then, a tooth ordered from dental technician cost little more than 3 marks and you looked good again. people also knew how to help themselves with a do-it-yourself approach , like henriette davidis.  it wasnt much work to fill a damaged tooth: ”heat a piece of gutta-percha (a sort of rubber) in boiling water untill it is completely soft” and then press it into the cavity. it held for a while !   (taken from kalendarium hamburgense 2015)

verysmall cafe`  ”mockachokolatajaja” at about the same place aussenkaien,  opposite the speicherstadt the ”wunderland” modelltrain-exhibition and the hamburg dungeon  and around the corner of the deichstrasse with the only old houses from before the big fire from 1842.

took bus 112 from mönckebergstrasse to oevelgönne. passed the greengarden area wallanlagen , the urban area at grosse bergstrasse, the altona museum and rathaus and finally came to the museumharbour at oevelgönne. had a matjesbrötchen in the sun and took the ferry 62/64 to teufelsbrück. took schnellbus 36 blankenese, schnellbus 484 down to blankenese anleger. had a beer at the beach at ahrbergs restaurant. took 484 (die bergziege) up again and 36 back to mönckebergstrasse.

3 hours-walkabouts every day at 11 am from rathaus , opposite side of the townhall. done by neweuropetours.eu   . free tour,  tips only.  ”from tales of pirates and the hanseatic league to worldwar II – air raids and the great fire, Hamburg has a special character set apart from the rest of germany. as europes second biggest port Hamburg has always been open to adventurers and travellers from the whole world and still is full of history, drama and wild nights .”

cruising on some public transport buses (hvv) :

starting point(s) for cruising in Hamburg is the ”mönckebergstrasse” between mainstation ”hauptbahnhof / hbf” and townhall ”rathaus”

in hamburg you cannot go back and forth on a single-ticket.

so for cruising in Hamburg you need a travelchart ( tageskarte from 9`o clock am until 6` o clock am next day, costs 6 euro, can be purchased on the bus ) . for the fastbussess (schnellbus , lines like 34, 36, 37 etc) you need a travelchart with extracharge ( tageskarte mit zuschlag, 7,50 eur ) or you can buy the extracharge on the bus. tageskarte includes the subway ( U-bahn), the commutertrains ( S-bahn ) and some harbourferries. for example the ferry from landungsbrücken to teufelsbrück via finkenwerder . a harbour trip with great views.

mönckebergstrasse

 bus 36` s stop: ”gerhard hauptmann platz”

take schnellbus 36 von ”gerhard hauptmann platz” untill to ”blankenese” ( termination)

from the very heart of commercial hamburg at the mönkebergstrasse you pass the townhall at rathausmarkt, the inner alster lake . then you have garden- and parkareas to the right side for about 3 km , former international garden exhibition IGA. at the huge statue of chancellor bismarck you turn into the reeperbahn. you could exit here at ”u-bahn st.pauli” and take a walk to the harbour , landungsbrücken. from there you could take a ferryboat to ”finkenwerder”, being there you would change to another waiting ferry to ”teufelsbrück” , from where you would meet bus 36 again.

continuing with 36 instead of exiting” you pass the ”reeperbahn”, townhall of Altona , formerly belonging to Danmark.  the next 10km you go nearly purely coastline, on the cliffs of the icetime , having the wide bed of the river elbe to your left.         at ”teufelsbrück”, the devils bridge their lies a beautiful peace of landscape sensitively shaped into natur like an English garden of the 18.th century, the ”Jenisch park” .

at the final station ”blankenese” you will find an alive village around the church and marketplace from where you can take down to the water by one or many of the steep staircases leading through the old fisher-settlement.  be aware that even here on the most narrow street a bus , number 48 (schnellbus, called the mountain-goat ) is circulating .

Another cruising with bus 109 :

cruising on innovation bus 109

I stayed at generator hostel, modern, open, international young folks ; chillycold athmosphere in the rooms; caught a 50% last-minute price.

started the day at himalaya – smallrestaurant around the corner kirchenallee, same nice guy in the open kitchen, good and priceworthy food and beer.

found my way across the mainstation (be carefull for thiefs at the entrances !) to the mönckebergstrasse and caught a bus 109 at the stop hbf/mönckebergstrasse , right side. she passes the inner city and from ”dammtor” turns into the rich villa area around the ”mittelweg” . from there its even a nice strolling area with many shops and restaurants, its also university-near, so even here you might find some low-price places. bus 109 then continues to ”klosterstern” and to metrostation ”sierichstarsse” (Little bit hidden”.  if you want you take the hochbahn just one station to ”kellinghusenstrasse” where the find the redbrick 100year old swimming-hall ”holthusenbad”. it has waves and outdoor-swimming even in Winter. if you book sauna for 17,20 eur you can spend the whole day , hot bathing , swimming in a beautifully restored environment. monday and wednesday the sauna is only for female costumers .

if you do not exit at ”sierichstrasse” you continue to metrostation ”alsterdorf” . (last stop) I have not done that part myself ; from the distance on the map it seems to be quite a long way on the streets and roads. at ”alsterdorf” you take the metro to ”klein borstel” or ”fuhlsbüttel”. at klein borstel you can find your way easily to the walkingpath besides the alster-river , ”alsterwanderweg”. or you go one station further to ”fuhlsbüttel” which has a a little village center amongst the villa area.  a very tasty furnished small cinese restaurant offers lunches untill 3 `o clock pm. I guess also from here you the alster-river. just ask if you find some.

back to Town and inner-city you can take the metro all the way

 

 

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